Hannam & Itaewon한남·이태원 · 로컬 가이드

Bestie tip · Haebangchon's top street (Sinheung-ro) has the rooftops with the tower straight in front. Climb to the top first, eat on the way down. Sunday many places close.

Bestie tip · Halal signs cluster near the Seoul Central Mosque uphill (Usadan-ro). The mosque itself is open to respectful visitors outside prayer times; cover shoulders and knees.

Bestie tip · Fridays around midday the mosque is busy; come after 2pm for a calm lunch.

Bestie tip · Order one Johnson tang for two plus a plate of grilled sausages; portions are big, so do not over order.

Bestie tip · Order samgyeopsal for two and a kimchi stew; wear clothes you don't mind smelling of the grill.

Bestie tip · Share the kimchi carnitas fries and order galbi short rib tacos; put your name down early on weekend nights.

Bestie tip · Share a mezze plate of hummus and falafel and add a lamb kebab plate; it works well for vegetarians too.

Bestie tip · Order a butter chicken and a lamb curry with garlic naan to share, and ask about the lunch sets at midday.

Bestie tip · Order a green curry and a stir fried noodle dish to share; ask them to raise the spice if you want real heat.

Bestie tip · Order the signature tonkotsu ramen with an extra egg; seats are few, so go off peak.

Bestie tip · Get a combo platter so you can try brisket and ribs together, and add mac and cheese.

Bestie tip · One burger is a full meal; share fries rather than ordering a side each.

Bestie tip · Try the Berber omelette sandwich and take it to go if the few seats are full.

Bestie tip · Order the Buja Classica or Bismarck pizza with arancini; there is no parking except paid valet.

Bestie tip · Order the half moon fried dumplings and a mapo tofu rice to share.

Bestie tip · Just order bugeotguk; it comes with rice and kimchi, and it is the right call the morning after a night in Itaewon.

Bestie tip · Order a mixed kebab plate to share and finish with baklava from Kervan Bakery up the road.

Bestie tip · Order ppyeojjim for two and ask for bokkeumbap at the end; it is open 24 hours, so it doubles as a late night stop.

Bestie tip · Come right at 15:00 for an open front seat and order the kkomak dish first.

Bestie tip · The seating upstairs is quiet in the morning. Buy a loaf for the hotel room on your way out; the bread keeps.

Bestie tip · Come for breakfast, order a sandwich on their rye bread, and take a loaf home.

Bestie tip · Head to the upper floors for quieter seats, and try a pour over from their own roast.

Bestie tip · Try a filter of the day and buy a bag of beans if you have a grinder at home.

Bestie tip · Bring a laptop or pick a book from the shelves; the entry is through the café ticket, so check the counter first.

Bestie tip · Walk up for sunset, grab a table on the open roof and stay as the tower lights come on.

Bestie tip · Come near opening, buy a fig or rye loaf and a sandwich bun, and eat them in Hannam park streets.

Bestie tip · Order the morning bun and a coffee and sit at the window; buy a loaf of country bread for later.

Bestie tip · Pick a cake from the counter first and then grab a seat; it is a good spot to rest between Hannam shops.

Bestie tip · Order the mont blanc with an Americano and take it to the terrace if there is a seat.

Bestie tip · Order the ice cream latte, an espresso poured over their milk ice cream.

Bestie tip · Share a Dutch baby, the puffy oven pancake with lemon and powdered sugar, plus one savory plate.

Bestie tip · Sit at the counter and order the plated dessert of the day with a drink.

Bestie tip · Get the red bean shaved ice in summer; the rest of the year take red bean sweets to go.

Bestie tip · Go before noon and pick two pastries from the front counter.

Bestie tip · Pick two filled donuts to share and come early before favorites sell out.

Bestie tip · Go around sunset and sit outside if there is a seat.

Bestie tip · Order avocado toast and a coffee; the name tells you what they are about.

Bestie tip · Choose a tart from the case and eat it fresh rather than carrying it around.

Bestie tip · Reserve the free permanent-collection slot on the website a few days ahead; walk-ins depend on capacity. Start on the top floor of Museum 1 and spiral down. The garden with the Anish Kapoor is free without a ticket.

Bestie tip · Non-guests are welcome at the lobby bar and terrace. Smart casual is enough. In winter the outdoor ice rink below the terrace is open to the public.

Bestie tip · Dress modestly to enter the grounds (shoulders and knees covered; scarves are lent at the gate). The bakery at the bottom of the hill does flatbread straight from the oven.

Bestie tip · Bring your passport; say you're a foreign visitor at the desk. Pick a record, take it to a listening station, stay an hour. The Design Library in Bukchon has the same rule.

Bestie tip · Take the underpass from the Hannam-dong side (near the UN Village hill). The GS25 by the water sells ramen you cook at the machine; eat it at the river tables, that's the local evening.

Bestie tip · Walk along the river path west toward Banpo if you want to continue to the fountain.

Bestie tip · Check what is on before going, then combine it with the vinyl shop and music library on the same block.

Bestie tip · Walk up before sunset from the Itaewon side streets and continue down to the restaurants for dinner.

Bestie tip · Pair it with Leeum and Hyundai Card Storage for a free afternoon art walk.

Bestie tip · Start at Namsan Library bus stop and walk east toward Hyatt. The lookout benches halfway face directly down the Han River bridges.

Bestie tip · Small items (brass, glass, old Korean lacquer boxes) are the realistic buys; shops will wrap for flights. Prices are negotiable here, unusually for Korea.

Bestie tip · Korean-language shows sometimes have English subtitle screens; check the listing for '영문자막'. Interpark Global sells to foreigners with a credit card.

Bestie tip · Stillbooks (the bookshop) sells Korean design magazines you won't find elsewhere; the café behind it is where the neighbourhood works on laptops.

Bestie tip · Dig through the Korean pressings and listen at the turntables first; pair it with the Music Library next door.

Bestie tip · Look for a chalkboard with tonight's set times outside. First set is usually calmer; second set is the party. Most bars take cards; tipping the band's jar is appreciated.

Bestie tip · Eat a kebab at the station end, drink on the 'world food street' behind the Hamilton Hotel, and finish at a rooftop on the hill. Taxis queue in front of the station after midnight.

Bestie tip · Arrive before 21:00 on weekends for an outdoor seat, and ask the bartender for something built on a spirit you like.

Bestie tip · Ask for two or three makgeolli from dry to sweet to compare, and share a seafood pajeon.

Bestie tip · Ask staff to line up two or three makgeolli from different regions and share a jeon pancake.

Bestie tip · Go after 21:00, sit at the bar and ask the person on the music for a request.

Bestie tip · Grab a terrace table early, share a plate of wings and watch the alley fill up.

Bestie tip · Go early, sit at the bar and tell them a flavour you like; let them build something off menu.

Bestie tip · Go after 21:00 when the band starts, and take a taxi up the hill; dress neatly.

Bestie tip · Get a flight to try several Magpie beers, then walk up Gyeongnidan for dinner.

Bestie tip · Sit at the counter, order a few skewers and a highball, then add a rice dish to finish.

Bestie tip · Ask the bartender about a song request and take a seat facing the shelves.

Bestie tip · Check the match schedule; on big game nights come early for a table.

Bestie tip · Order the soy garlic chicken with a beer; it is the brand's best known flavor.

Bestie tip · Ask what is newest on tap and get a small glass first.

Bestie tip · Go after 22:00 when the music gets going and keep the order simple.

Bestie tip · Order one big stew to share and soju; it is a late night place.

Bestie tip · Book ahead for weekend nights and ask for a glass recommendation.

Bestie tip · Pair it with Pet Sounds next door for a two bar music night.

Bestie tip · Go early and start with highballs and a skewer set.

Bestie tip · Go before dark for the sky over Itaewon, then stay for a cocktail.